Saturday, December 22, 2007

Fear In Sydney (cont'd)

The restaurant business is a melting pot that rents itself to all walks of life. Bartenders may be working the moonlight to pick up extra cash during the off-season of their other career in yacht sales. Waiters and waitresses are attracted to an industry that is both forgiving with school schedules and a good source for a fast cash income. Dishwashers are typically immigrants working to provide for families overseas. Cooks are the odd mix of scholars, hippies, drug dealers, real estate agents, artists, actors, soccer moms, pedophiles, and military reservists. In short, you never know who you will meet or where. Sometimes it gets you into trouble. Sometimes it gets you out.

Two years ago I was working with a dishwasher who was finishing school with some sort of criminal justice degree. Today that dishwasher is a Customs officer working for New Zealand Immigration Services (NZIS). Good people to know when your balls are being felt up by badges in the Australian international airport. Let’s call him The Pacifier.

My first phone call upon reaching the hotel is to the restaurant. I tell the owner about our difficulties at the airport and he is immediately as paranoid as I am, if not more. “You didn’t mention the restaurant, did you”? I explain that I didn’t but that I need to get in touch with The Pacifier. It takes less than five minutes to track down his number from the rest of the staff. I tell the owner that I am concerned about being able to re-enter New Zealand and that I will be in touch. His parting words are something like, “Don’t mention my name to New Zealand Customs. It might throw up a flag.” Brilliant. Too bad it is on the initial form I filled out upon entering the country.

While I am on the phone I open my email and find that Travelocity has cancelled our onward flights from Auckland without reason. The tickets were Auckland-Sydney tickets and they were cancelled sometime between our departure time that morning and our arrival time at the hotel. Why were they cancelled? Who cancelled them? It is our only way to show NZIS that we intend on leaving the country and we can't get back into the country without this onward flight.

I ring The Pacifier. And in some sort of mad blurry panic (we are already a few shots into the tequila to ease our nerves) I bellow out the entire airport saga in one long uninterrupted sentence. The Pacifier says, “Why didn’t you just tell them you were there for a passport stamp? It’s not illegal.” And furthermore, “You didn’t do anything wrong.” It was as if Atlas just said “fuck it”, dropped the world off his back, and said “I think I’ll go grab a sandwich.” The Pacifier put a calm in the room and assured me that we probably would not be flagged upon entering New Zealand.

And we weren’t. Not to say that we weren’t nervous. For once I was entering the country with no camping gear. I hadn’t been on a farm or killed any farm animals recently. I had no fruits, seeds, or genetically-modified-organisms. And I was carrying less than $10,000. So I breeze through with only a minor panic attack.



A couple weeks later The Pacifier came by the restaurant to catch up with everyone. I gave him a high-five and thanked him for giving us all some peace of mind. He tells me that I am the only person he personally knows of who has ever been searched. I went into the details of my questioning and he tells me I was lucky. Had we answered a question wrong they could have denied us entry and sent us back to New Zealand. Upon arriving in Auckland, the NZIS would see that we were not admitted into Australia and then would likely send us back to the USA.

He also mentioned that the next step of this interrogation process is to turn us over to Australian federal agents that would promptly take us to a hospital for a catscan to make sure we weren’t drug mules before we were further detained for more extensive questioning. New Zealand, he says, doesn't frisk people. It is against the law. Instead you get to strip. I wonder if there is a fireman's pole in the interrogation room so that you can spin and dance around a bit before you spread yourself open for all to gaze upon your little purple starfish.

Why the horrible coincidence of our Travelocity tickets being cancelled during the same time as our Customs interrogation happened is still a mystery. But we were still able to print the e-ticket itinerary and use it as proof of our intentions to depart New Zealand. So in the end of this happy little fairy tale we saved about $400 on airfare at the sole expense of having my balls fondled in public. Crikey! The cooks win again!

Friday, December 21, 2007

The Mighty Bean

Six-course degustation menu revolving around The Mighty Bean with a predominately African influence.



Adzuki and goat cheese bhajia
Grilled octopus 'giardinera'
Moroccan olives
Fig and balsamic reduction

Blue crab cakes
Preserved blood orange and edamame salad
Baby fennel
Extra-virgin olive oil

Bacalao dhokla
Soy-lemongrass vinaigrette
Garlic confit and tomato pulp

Harissa cured wahoo 'tornados'
Sweet corn puree
Chickpea dukkah
Chive-lime oil
Bean sprouts

Dhal crusted monkfish pan-fried in niter kebbeh
Rutabega-herb crisps
Chinese long beans

Coffee and vanilla bean soy pannacotta
Black raspberries
Basil seeds

Fear In Sydney

Here I am possibly stranded in Sydney, again. I left Coromandel, New Zealand yesterday night after a long day at work. I arrived at the Auckland International Airport around 2:00am after a two-hour drive. I am tired and glass-eyed, hungry, and ill-prepared for this 3-day mini-vacation which is ultimately to get a passport stamp. Other than what I am wearing - a Mafia Island dive shop shirt, jeans, and my Tusker Lager hat - I have only packed one pair of shorts and my Communist red star-studded “Fight The Power” garden gnome t-shirt. I am not a Communist by any means. But it fits the gnome rather well. I have two backpacks. One is empty. The other is chock full of camera gear and Boomer, the liberated (read: stolen) roaming garden gnome. I have two bottles of booze purchased from duty-free. One Agavero Tequila and one Jameson Gold.



The flight that I booked was on Australia’s main airline, Quantas. The flight that I was put on was LAN, a Chilean airline which was en route to Aussie from Chile. Two things are to happen in Australia. There is no secret in saying that I needed a passport to finish my seasonal stint working as an illegal alien at The Peppertree. And the second reason is to dine at Pier, one of Aussie’s claimed best restaurants.

Crystal and Jake have joined me and are also travelling light and masking the fact that they too are working as illegal aliens. The plane leaves Auckland at 5:35am and arrives in Sydney around 9:00am Aussie time. And upon arrival the proverbial plane crashes into the fucking mountain. Metaphorically speaking of course.

We head straight to Customs as we have no baggage to claim. The Australian Immigration Services officer asks several basic questions like:

AIS: “Where are you staying?”

I didn’t know. We just planned on grabbing a taxi and heading to the nearest hotel.

AIS: “Do you know anyone in Australia?”

Me: “Yes. I was here two years ago. I might meet my friends but they don’t know that I am coming.“

AIS: “What are you planning on doing here?”

Me: “Eating.”

AIS: “Are you working in New Zealand?”

Me: “No. Just staying with friends.”

AIS: “How do you afford to travel like this without working”?

Me: “I work seasonal contracts in Alaska. It pays very well cause nobody wants to freeze their ass off or deal with 24 hours of sunlight.”

I get the gratuitous passport stamp. And in the mean while Crystal and Jake are grilled with similar questions. The whole process takes less than five minutes. We head to the baggage scan area and are flagged for further questioning.

A glass-eyed American on a Chilean flight with no luggage, with only a wad of cash inside a passport, no wallet, an empty backpack, two expensive bottles of booze, and several short trips through the Caribbean drug triangle with several stamps from Nicaragua and Costa Rica seems to throw up a red flag in Customs. And nevermind the “$400 fee paid” chicken scratch written in my passport next to a bunch of Swahili jibberish stemming from bribes in Dar Es Salaam, Nairobi, and Zanzibar. Fiji was flagged because I was only there for five days - and forget that they just had a government coup.

I am further questioned about my recent short trips abroad and why I would fly to Sydney for only two days. Crystal and Jake are questioned as well. And questioned as to their relationships with me. Jake is set free. But Crystal is dragged to a back room for further interrogation and searches.

I am passed a laminated sheet of paper by a tall, clean shaven, gorilla of a man. The paper indicates the rules of fair search and I am asked to comply with being frisked or face a “higher detention” status. There are four officials gathered around me at pretty much all times but their faces keep changing because they are bouncing back and forth between Crystal and I to make sure our stories jive. The hulking AIS agent asks me if I would like the search to be done in private or public. I tell him that I have no problem being frisked and searched in public as long as the frisking and searching isn’t so “thorough” that I stand to be embarrassed. He smiles and reaches for the rubber gloves.

I stand winged. Arms out like Jesus, feet at shoulder’s width. First he tightly rubs around the arms. I see flashbacks from Midnight Express. People walking around in circles at the insane asylum. The “bad machines” biding their time. Then he does the legs and dips his fingers into my shoes. My ribs are next. And then it happened. The agent grabs a handful of my balls and rubs down my taint for a brief but all-to-memorable climax, er, finale to my frisk down.

And guess what?

No dope. No bombs. Only a frank and beans and a rather surprised expression on my face.

I am not sure what the little magic wand that they rubbed all over my bags told them. But it was quite obviously bullshit. There were a few scribbles written down on varied pieces of paper. A few small forms were jotted out. And then at 10:30am, approximately one and a half hours after our plane landed, we were let go.

Travelocity, for some unknown reason, has cancelled our onward flights. So when we arrive in Auckland in two days we have no way of showing the NZIS that we intend on leaving the country. And I am sure that the little jots and scribbles taken down in Sydney will be waiting for us when we do arrive in New Zealand. And we will get to do the whole process again.

Wholesale disaster.

At present we are searching for plane tickets that will show NZIS that we only intend on staying there for two weeks. If that falls through then I might get my first Christmas at home in five years.

“It’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas.... Everywhere you go....”


(To be continued...)

Tuesday, December 4, 2007

Reflecting Upon Pasta

Seven course degustation menu revolving around the most tasty ingredient ever imagined by man.

Beloved pasta.



Angel hair wrapped breadsticks, wild boar prosciutto, pickled cauliflower & artichoke giardiniera

Monkfish minestrone

Balls out pasta with kick-ass olive oil, chopped heirloom tomatoes, and fresh basil. That’s all.

Fried diced perciatelli and chive disc with calves liver pate, caper berries and onion relish, warm Italian olives

Rabbit and prune ravioli, fresh green peppercorn beurre blanc, rainbow chard sauteed in evoo, crumbled Gorgonzola

Sage and smoked bacon gnocci with braised ox tail and pork hocks

Sweet mascarpone and candied citrus stuffed in Grand Marnier poached pasta shells with black mission fig puree, strawberry puree, pistachio brittle